Tackling the Tack:

Care in High Heat and Sand

By Gabriel Denison and John von Haas

Here in Central Oregon, we equestrians face many unique situations because of our geographic location. One that is frequently overlooked is the condition of our tack, our investment in the equine lifestyle providing years of service. The Central Oregonian dilemma is the specifics of tack care, as many time honored traditions simply to do not apply to the Central Oregon climate. Volcanic dust permeates everything, acting like pumice; it dries and grinds your leather, creating weak spots.Temperature extremes are also harmful to your equipment, accelerating breakdown of leather and fabric. Whether you're preparing for the show ring or enjoy long trail rides, your tack needs to be cleaned and cared for often.Our basic knowledge of tack care comes from England and the British Isles, where the primary climate concern is the damp. Damp weather requires an essential coat of oil on leather goods to protect against mold and mildew. In Central Oregon, although pure Neatsfoot oil can be viewed as a restorative for badly dried out leather, it cannot be viewed as an everyday cleaning material. Well-oiled High Desert tack turns gummy when blowing dust meets oil residue.

What to do? With leather, the basic rules of skin care apply: Cleanse and moisturize. With fabrics, clean is always the rule.
To begin the task of tackling Central Oregon tack, you must have the proper tools: saddle soap (bar or paste), towels, oil, toothbrushes and a measure of elbow grease. Elbow grease is initially applied when you unbuckle all the buckles, remove stirrups, put the bits in soapy water, and brush the underside of your saddle. Remember, disassembly of tack is imperative for proper cleaning.

Saddle soap is used for surface cleaning and comes in a variety of forms. Originally, the glycerin bar was most common, but today pastes or liquids are also available. Any type of detergent free leather cleaner is sufficient, but the important part is the removal of all soap residues from the leather before the next step. The removal of this residue is essential, as it will build, attract dirt and eventually add to the demise of your saddle or bridle.

The procedure for the soap is simple. Wet your cleaning towel or sponge with warm water and dip it or rub it into your soap, creating sudsy foam. Using circles, scrub your leather, loosening dirt and sweat from the leather. You may want to set soaped items aside for 2-3 minutes, letting the warm suds penetrate the dirt. You can always soap another piece of tack while the other waits. Then, using another clean towel, vigorously rub the soap and dirt from the leather. Reins are easy: grab the end of one rein firmly, and pull the entire length of the sudsy rein through your opposite, toweled fist. Saddles with leatherwork are harder: you may need your toothbrush to loosen caked dirt. If you are working around buckles or crevices, using a toothbrush to reach into tight areas help dislodge dirt and dust. If the leather is black or cracked, the toothbrush gets into the crevices and gives a good clean. Always wet your brush in warm water so it accepts the soap. After removing the dirt/soap residue, it's wise to rinse the leather with a warm, damp towel. Then dry towel the leather, soaking up any excess water. Important: Always be sure to rinse off any traces of soap, even if the instructions don't indicate rinsing. Here in the High Desert, we need to have a dry clean surface to combat the volcanic dust.

Having created a receptive surface, we moisturize. Oiling is key for keeping leather in excellent, supple shape. Avoid solid oils such as Mink paste or lard. These oils will melt from the heat of your hands, but on leather they leave a congealed deposit. It attracts dirt, and rubs off on everything, doing more harm than good. When considering positive leather therapy, look for an oil with no mineral deposits, or compounds. Many brands are available on the market, but vegetable oil makes a good, cheap substitute, especially if you have a lot of tack.
Be sure the leather is dry before application. Take the bottle and place some oil in the palm of your hand and then rub the oil into the leather. Cover all sides, and if the leather is really dry, you'll need to wait 20 minutes for the oil to soak in. Be sure to get oil in all areas, especially dry and crack spots. After the oil has set, take another trusty towel, and lightly wiping off any excess, hang to completely dry. This way you avoid the oil attracting dust and dirt.

Avoid getting soap or oil on suede; use a wire brush to refresh these sections. Keep your work area organized, laying out each part to avoid confusion during reassembly.
Bits, chains, and silver all need to be cleaned as well. Conchos and buckles should be removed, as not to contaminate the leather, and washed with silver polish. Any metal items in or around a horse's mouth should never be cleaned with chemicals. Even if the label says it's non-toxic, it's best to be safe, washing them with mild dishwashing liquid in warm water. A small brush for tough dirt works well, always rinsing thoroughly.

The fine pumice dust that covers all of Central Oregon can be found in all areas of your tack; at buckle points, under the jockey, embedded in the seat. It also destroys sports fabrics, used in many horse products. Therefore, a final touch is a weather resistant sealer, good to use for leather or fabric based equipment. The sealers create a slick surface, confounding pumice, dirt and any rain you might find on the trail.

Velcro must be cleaned with a stiff-bristled brush. Follow up with a good vacuuming of all your winter and saddles blankets. Using a front-loading machine, and wash your blankets after removing all the old hair and grime. You can secure the buckles with socks and rubber bands to prevent damaging the interior of the washer. Pre-spot the stained areas, and apply that handy brush with the previously mentioned elbow grease. If you are cleaning non-leather tack, but use your drying towel to remove the sudsy waste products, before using a sealer.

You should keep your tack clean and protected, no matter how much you ride. Broken tie straps, girths or bridles are life threatening to you and your horse. Protect your investment: it will keep you safe.